Northern Kashubia for 4 seasons - Piotr Kowalewski, Jarosław K. Nowakowski, Katarzyna Rosińska - ebook

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The Baltic shores swept by bitter northern winds and the sunniest bay in Poland, Puck Bay. A chance to marvel at the Northern Lights in winter. Birds travelling from afar herald seasonal changes here as each autumn and spring they stop on their way between the Arctic and warmer climes. Even though it is not a lakeland, the cleanest Polish lakes are here. This is Northern Kashubia, where you can discover amazing landscapes, natural phenomena, plants, and animals that you won’t find in other regions of Poland.

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A GUIDE  
Key to the icons used in the texts:  
Spring  
Summer  
Autumn  
Winter  
observation of sea and sky phenomena  
sky observation  
bird observation  
seal observation  
plant observation  
A GUIDE  
Table  
of contents  
Nature in Northern Kashubia 9  
Protected areas – reserves, sanctuaries,  
and geosites 25  
Discovering Norda 51  
History and culture 67  
Practical information 73  
INVITATION  
TO NORTHERN KASHUBIA  
The Baltic shores swept by bitter northern winds and the sunniest bay  
in Poland, Puck Bay. In summer, the longest days and the most beautiful  
beaches on the longest Polish peninsula; in winter, the longest nights,  
providing a chance to see the Northern Lights. Travelling birds herald  
seasonal changes here as each spring and autumn they stop on their way  
between the Arctic and warmer climes. Still young, geologically speaking,  
the coastal landscape is constantly changing: the sea devours some  
elevated places and gives us a glimpse into past chapters of the Earth’s  
history; elsewhere, the waves, winds, and plants form dunes which are  
the youngest scraps of land. Plant species from the times when tundra  
grew in this region are preserved here. Even though it is not an area full  
of lakes, the cleanest Polish lakes are here. This unique region formed the  
identity of the Kashubians, who have been living by the sea for a dozen  
centuries. We call it Northern Kashubia; its residents simply call it Norda.  
Let’s discover these amazing landscapes, natural phenomena, plants,  
and animals that can’t be found in other regions of Poland. Coming to  
Norda in summer is not enough to appreciate its diversity. Many natural  
peculiarities can only be seen in winter, autumn, or spring, when the  
nature changes more quickly.  
To make your discoveries easier we have prepared a tourist guide that  
highlights where seasonal wonders of nature can be seen. The descriptive  
part of the guide focuses on the secrets of the animate and inanimate  
nature which make this land so exceptional: nature sanctuaries and pro-  
tected areas, often unmatched in the whole of Poland, the educational  
paths that run across them, tourist trails for hikers, bikers, and drivers.  
It is impossible to describe this part of Pomerania without talking about  
its natives – the Kashubians. Their culture and customs, as well as the  
regional folklore visible at their regular social events, are what the last  
part of the guide briefly outlines.  
Enjoy getting back to nature with glee and gusto!  
Spring  
6
2
1
5
4
3
THE LAND  
Vꢀ  
ꢀTheꢀcommonꢀbroomꢀ(p.ꢀ33–34)ꢀbloomsꢀinꢀChłapowskiꢀGorgeꢀ and Strondowy Ravine  
1
2
toꢀtheꢀsouthꢀofꢀJastrzębiaꢀGóra.ꢀ  
THE BEACH AND THE WATER  
III  
Under certain weather conditions, ice floes pile up on the coast of Puck Bay and at Rewa  
Cape , transforming into ice balls (p. 43).  
3
The storm period ends and the summer beach reappears. The ebbs and flows of waves leave  
behind the strandline (p. 11), which sometimes hides pieces of amber.  
THE AIR  
III–Vꢀ  
ꢀOnꢀtheꢀduneꢀinꢀKuźnicaꢀ , near beach entrance No 33; on bright days you can see a dozen  
4
species of birds of prey as well as swans, ducks, and cranes (p. 18).  
The forests of the Kashubian coast are just as good for birdwatching. In early spring finches and  
thrushes appear and are so numerous that they form moving blankets in glades and meadows  
(p. 18).  
ꢀAtꢀnightꢀinꢀKażaꢀsanctuaryꢀ and in Bielawa reserve  
you can try to spot long-eared owls  
5
6
(p. 19, 31).  
THE SKY  
III  
V
On clear nights the aurora borealis can be seen over the Baltic (p. 14–15).  
From 9 May, 24-hour daylight starts, astronomically speaking, as the astronomical dusk  
changes into dawn (p. 15).  
6
Summer  
5
2
1
3
11  
6
7
4
8
9
10  
THE LAND  
VIꢀ  
ꢀTheꢀcommonꢀbroomꢀ(p.ꢀ33–34)ꢀbloomsꢀinꢀChłapowskiꢀGorgeꢀ and Strondowy Ravine  
to  
1
2
theꢀsouthꢀofꢀJastrzębiaꢀGóra.  
In Zielone reserve  
you can feel like you’re in Amazonia – the common honeysuckle twines  
3
around trees like lianas (p. 50).  
VI–VII Lime Alley in bloom in Rzucewo  
(p. 44).  
4
VIII  
The heaths in Strondowy Ravine ꢀ(p.ꢀ34)ꢀandꢀBielawskieꢀBłotaꢀmarshꢀ are in bloom (p. 30–31).  
5
6
THE BEACH AND THE WATER  
VI–VII Choczewskie  
and Czarne  
lakes boast their Lobelian lake vegetation, including water  
7
8
lobelia (p. 44).  
VIII  
Water in the sea is at its warmest. In Puck Bay near Rewa Cape , underwater meadows are in  
9
bloom (p. 21–22).  
THE AIR  
VI–VIII In Beka reserve ꢀ(p.ꢀ19,ꢀ27)ꢀandꢀBielawskieꢀBłotaꢀ (p. 30–31) you can see birds that nest  
10 11  
and migrate.  
ꢀCraneꢀcongregationsꢀinꢀBielawskieꢀBłotaꢀ (p. 20).  
VIIIꢀ  
11  
THE SKY  
VI–VII The period of 24 astronomical daylight hours a day continues, the afterglow changes into the  
break of dawn. The clear midnight sky features night-shining clouds (p. 15).  
VIꢀ  
ꢀFromꢀ13ꢀtoꢀ28ꢀJuneꢀthereꢀareꢀnauticalꢀwhiteꢀnights:ꢀtheꢀsunꢀdescendsꢀonlyꢀaꢀbitꢀmoreꢀthanꢀ6˚ꢀ  
under the line of the horizon. The phenomenon is most visible from the sea coast (p. 14–15).  
7
Autumn  
4
2
7
1
3
8
10  
11  
9
6
5
THE LAND  
IXꢀ  
ꢀCommonꢀseaꢀbuckthornꢀ(p.ꢀ33)ꢀbearsꢀyellow-orangeꢀfruitꢀinꢀChłapowskiꢀGorgeꢀ  
.
1
X
Beeches that grow in forests by the Bezimienna river  
hues (p. 40).  
are adorned in beautiful autumn  
2
XIꢀ  
ꢀTheꢀlivingꢀcliffsꢀofꢀChłapowoꢀ ꢀandꢀJastrzębiaꢀGóraꢀ are marked by fresh  
3
4
landslides (p. 10).  
THE BEACH AND THE WATER  
IX–XI Autumn is a great time to see grey seals at the tip of Hel Peninsula  
(p. 16–17, 36).  
5
X–XI  
The storm period begins and the summer beach is gone for some time. The ebbs and flows  
of waves leave behind the strandline (p. 11), which sometimes hides pieces of amber.  
On dry and windy days the movement of sand dunes may be seen, for instance in Helskie  
X–XI  
Wydmy reserve  
(p. 36) and on Lubiatowska Dune  
(p. 39–40).  
6
7
THE AIR  
IXꢀ  
ꢀCraneꢀcongregationsꢀinꢀBielawskieꢀBłotaꢀ (p. 20).  
8
IX–XI  
Autumn is the time of bird migrations (p. 17–21). To watch migratory birds, you should go to  
Beka reserve ,ꢀKażaꢀsanctuaryꢀ ,ꢀorꢀperhapsꢀTorfoweꢀKłyleꢀ  
.
9
10 11  
X–XI  
During storms, skuas can be seen by the sea (p. 20).  
THE SKY  
XI  
On clear nights, the aurora borealis can be seen over the Baltic (p. 14–15).  
8
Winter  
2
4
1
8
7
6
5
3
THE LAND  
XII–IIꢀ TheꢀlivingꢀcliffsꢀofꢀChłapowoꢀ ꢀandꢀJastrzębiaꢀGóraꢀ are marked by fresh landslides (p. 10).  
1
2
THE BEACH AND THE WATER  
XII–II  
XII–II  
I–II  
On dry and windy days the movement of sand dunes may be seen, for instance in Helskie Wydmy  
reserve (p. 36) and on Lubiatowska Dune (p. 39–40).  
The storm period continues, and the summer beach is still gone. The ebbs and flows of waves  
leave behind the strandline (p. 11), which sometimes hides pieces of amber.  
3
4
Ice floes pile up on the coast of Puck Bay and at Rewa Cape , transforming into ice balls under  
5
certain weather conditions (p. 43).  
THE AIR  
XII–II  
In Norda, birdwatching can be done in many places, including Beka reserve  
(p. 27), by the  
6
open sea, in harbours (p. 21), and in Puck Bay, which is one of the main bird wintering grounds  
in Europe (p. 20). Here, birds appear in the biggest numbers at the estuaries of the Reda  
7
andꢀtheꢀZagórskaꢀStrugaꢀ  
.
7
XII–IIꢀ ꢀLakeꢀŻarnowieckieꢀ is one of the largest Polish wintering grounds for the common coot,  
8
which is accompanied by whooper swans, smews, and grebes (p. 15, 21).  
I–II  
On sunny days, long-tailed ducks (a species of sea duck) start their courtship rituals (p. 21).  
On clear nights, the aurora borealis can be seen over the Baltic (p. 21).  
THE SKY  
XII–II  
9
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO NORDA  
WhenꢀvisitingꢀHelꢀPeninsula,ꢀPuckꢀBay,ꢀorꢀtheꢀbeachꢀinꢀDębki,ꢀwhichꢀisꢀ  
one of the nicest on the Polish coast, you should carefully consider when  
you plan to visit. Over the summer months, those places are so crowded  
with people that local nature often suffers: coastal dunes are trampled  
while protected birds and sea mammals are often scared away from  
their habitats. Tourists leave lots of rubbish on the beaches and the  
noisy parties they throw there frighten animals away.  
When you relax in the water, please don’t forget the marine animals.  
Forꢀinstance,ꢀinsteadꢀofꢀa deafeningꢀjetꢀski,ꢀchooseꢀa kayakꢀsoꢀthatꢀyouꢀ  
can watch protected birds or mammals without scaring them. If you wish  
to have fun windsurfing or kitesurfing, please avoid Ryf Mew (Seagull  
Sandbar)ꢀasꢀthisꢀspotꢀisꢀa uniqueꢀhabitatꢀonꢀtheꢀBalticꢀcoast.ꢀDozensꢀofꢀ  
bird species may be watched here, and resting seals might sometimes  
appear. If you want to angle, remember to purchase appropriate permits  
and check the relevant regulations concerning sea waters – they were  
issued so that we can fish responsibly.  
Even choosing the right accommodation can help nature. If, instead  
ofꢀcampsitesꢀbyꢀtheꢀbay,ꢀyouꢀchooseꢀlodgingsꢀinꢀa populatedꢀareaꢀorꢀ  
a campsiteꢀfarꢀfromꢀa beach,ꢀyouꢀactꢀtoꢀeaseꢀtheꢀpressureꢀthatꢀhumansꢀ  
are putting Puck Bay under. The reed beds growing by the shore, which  
are home to many protected bird and fish species, are being destroyed  
by artificial beaches.  
The more we take conscious decisions, the better not only for nature,  
but also for us. To have the chance to relax in and with nature, it seems  
sensible to visit Northern Kashubia in spring, autumn, or winter. Each of  
these seasons is packed full of amazing natural attractions. Those who  
loveꢀwarmꢀdaysꢀmayꢀfindꢀSeptemberꢀtoꢀbeꢀa goodꢀperiodꢀwhenꢀnatureꢀ  
returns to its proper rhythm after the clamour of the peak season: the  
evenings are still long, the sea is warmer than in June, and the weather  
is balmy.  
Relax close to nature! Relax together with nature!  
10  
Nature in Northern Kashubia  
Nature  
in Northern  
Kashubia  
photo by R. Nanaszko  
11  
Nature in Northern Kashubia  
The northernmost stretch of Poland  
isꢀa regionꢀofꢀconstantꢀstruggleꢀbe-  
tween the sea and the land. In some  
spots the Baltic is winning as it swal-  
lows clay deposits from cliffs dur-  
ing winter storms; elsewhere rivers  
that flow into the sea and coastal  
currents are forming the youngest  
crumbs of the European continent.  
Windꢀandꢀwaterꢀexertꢀa powerfulꢀ  
force on the landscapes, flora, and  
fauna here, making them unique in  
the whole of Poland, with one group  
of organisms quickly superseded by  
Cliffed coast at Chłapowo, photo by W. Podolak  
another. Severe and mild at the same time, the coastal climate not  
onlyꢀmakesꢀitꢀa goodꢀenvironmentꢀforꢀplantꢀandꢀanimalꢀspeciesꢀthatꢀ  
areꢀtypicalꢀofꢀbothꢀwarmerꢀandꢀcolderꢀpartsꢀofꢀEurope,ꢀbutꢀalsoꢀa placeꢀ  
of rest for flocks of migratory birds which find respite here on their  
annual travels.  
European herring gull, photo by M. Hadwiczak  
CLIFFS, A COASTAL LANDSCAPE  
FOREVER YOUNG  
A fifthꢀofꢀtheꢀPolishꢀcoastꢀofꢀtheꢀBalticꢀSeaꢀ(145ꢀkm)ꢀisꢀinꢀNorthernꢀKashu-  
bia. The landscape is changing dynamically all the time where the sea  
touchesꢀtheꢀland.ꢀThisꢀprocessꢀcanꢀbestꢀbeꢀseenꢀaroundꢀcliffs.ꢀA cliffedꢀ  
coast is created where sea waves crash against mounds of higher el-  
evation (moraine plateaus). As water washes away the sediment from  
theꢀfootꢀofꢀa rockꢀexposure,ꢀwave-cutꢀnotchesꢀappearꢀatꢀtheꢀbottomꢀ  
bottom which cause landslides and slippages of sand or clay layers.  
Klif Chłapowski (Chłapowski Cliff),  
photo by M. Hadwiczak  
The “ravenous” Baltic  
During winter storms,  
the changes in cliffs are extensive  
andꢀeasyꢀtoꢀsee:ꢀwavesꢀareꢀthenꢀableꢀtoꢀ“swallow”ꢀa beachꢀandꢀtoꢀhitꢀ  
a precipiceꢀwithꢀfullꢀforce.ꢀIfꢀtheꢀseaꢀactuallyꢀcutsꢀa bitꢀofꢀlandꢀawayꢀ  
each year, the cliff is called “living”. The living cliffs worth seeing on the  
BalticꢀshoreꢀareꢀnearꢀChłapowoꢀandꢀJastrzębiaꢀGóraꢀ(theyꢀareꢀsecondꢀ  
in height only to the cliffs of Wolin Island). In the Puck Bay area, short  
sectionsꢀofꢀlivingꢀcliffsꢀareꢀtoꢀtheꢀnorthꢀofꢀOsłoninoꢀandꢀtoꢀtheꢀsouthꢀ  
of Mechelinki. Other cliff sections are “dead”, which means that waves  
cannot reach them during storm surges. Among them, Swarzewski  
The Polish shore of the Baltic  
recedes at about 0.7–0.9 m  
per year. In some places, sea  
waves can devour as much  
as 5–10 m of cliffs and dunes  
duringꢀa heavyꢀstorm.  
12  
Nature in Northern Kashubia  
Cliff, Pucki Cliff, Rzucewski Cliff, and the one in Cape Rozewie nature  
reserve may be mentioned.  
HOW DID HEL PENINSULA FORM?  
To understand how this narrow spit of land came to be, we need to think  
back to the time when the sea level was 30 m lower than it is now, and  
the mouth of the Vistula was to the east of the present-day Jurata resort.  
The level of the sea started to rise rapidly, and its waves kept flooding  
and destroying tracts of land, which became the source of the sediment  
that formed the beginning of this peninsula. The underwater shoal was  
(and is to this day) built by two currents flowing in from the hillocks of  
KępaꢀSwarzewskaꢀ(Władysławowo)ꢀandꢀKępaꢀOksywskaꢀ(Gdynia).ꢀTheꢀ  
youngest part of this coastal spit has been forming for “only” 3 thousand  
years to the west of Jurata. The small Rewa headland (Mierzeja Rewska)  
is the same age.  
Rewa Headland, photo by K. Kazanowski  
Cypel Rewski (Rewa  
headland, Kash. Szpërk)  
Toꢀtheꢀsouth-westꢀofꢀWładys-  
ławowo,ꢀbetweenꢀRewaꢀandꢀ  
Kuźnica,ꢀwhatꢀisꢀtakingꢀplaceꢀ  
before our eyes is the forma-  
tionꢀprocessꢀofꢀa uniqueꢀpen-  
insula that is slowly closing off  
the inner part of Puck Bay.  
When the water level drops,  
a sandbankꢀ thatꢀ isꢀ almostꢀ  
a kilometreꢀ longꢀ emergesꢀ  
from the Bay, formed by the  
same sea currents that build  
Hel Peninsula. The sandbar is  
part of a shoal called Mewia  
Rewa or Ryf Mew (Seagull  
Sandbank), which stretches  
underwaterꢀ upꢀ toꢀ Kuźnicaꢀ  
and in some places comes to  
the surface.  
THE STRANDLINE BRINGS  
TREASURES  
Stronger waves or storm surges deposit plant and animal remains that  
formꢀa sortꢀofꢀembankmentꢀovergrownꢀwithꢀplants,ꢀcalledꢀ  
kidzina in Polish (czidzëna in Kashubian). This flotsam and jetsam  
is removed from the main swimming areas, but it is worth looking at in  
moreꢀremoteꢀplacesꢀsinceꢀtheꢀorganicꢀremainsꢀitꢀcontainsꢀsayꢀa lotꢀaboutꢀ  
the organisms that live at the bottom of the littoral zone of the sea.  
On the open Baltic coast in summer, it is easy to find the distinctive air  
bladders of bladderwrack (also called sea kelp), which is the largest Baltic  
algae from the brown algae class, as well as black carrageen (Furcellaria  
lumbricalis),ꢀa typeꢀofꢀsmallꢀredꢀalgaeꢀwithꢀfastigiatedꢀreddishꢀorꢀbrownishꢀ  
fronds. Both species are now heavily depleted in the Polish part of the  
Baltic; the bladderwrack and red algae material that can be found on  
Polish beaches mostly comes from Danish and Swedish shores.  
Strandlineꢀvegetationꢀinꢀtheꢀsandꢀcanꢀalsoꢀsometimesꢀcontainꢀa con-  
siderable number of bivalve shells, with the Baltic clam being the most  
common among them. This species is one of the main food sources for  
flounders. The largest (6–8 cm) Baltic shells are those of sand gapers.  
Strandline, photo by M. Hadwiczak  
13  
Nature in Northern Kashubia  
Unlikeꢀtheseꢀtwoꢀspecies,ꢀlagoonꢀcocklesꢀhaveꢀa denselyꢀribbedꢀshellꢀ  
surface.  
After strong storm surges, pieces of amber can be found in the strand-  
line. This is Baltic gold, called jantar in Kashubian and bùrsztin in Hel  
Peninsula. It comes from the era about 35 million years ago, when im-  
mense coniferous forests grew in the region where the Baltic now is.  
Large amounts of resin would trickle down from the trees and its fos-  
silized form would be carried southward by the Eridanos river and later  
on, during glacial periods, by ice streams. The pieces of resin submerged  
under the Baltic waters are to this very day dragged up by waves and  
swept ashore.  
Sometimesꢀsmallꢀlagoonsꢀformꢀonꢀbeaches.ꢀApartꢀfromꢀa smallꢀcrusta-  
ceanꢀspeciesꢀcalledꢀgammaridsꢀ(orꢀscuds),ꢀmoonꢀjellyꢀ(a sortꢀofꢀumbrel-  
la-shaped jellyfish) lives here. These cnidarians are 98% water and feed  
onꢀplankton.ꢀTheyꢀdon’tꢀsurviveꢀonꢀlandꢀunlessꢀa bigꢀwaveꢀwashesꢀthemꢀ  
back to the sea. Don’t worry, even though moon jelly has cnidocytes  
(stinging tentacles), they can’t hurt humans.  
Bladderwrack, photo by M. Hadwiczak  
Writing sand  
Along with bright sand, dark-  
er sand can be found on the  
beaches which is mostly com-  
posed of dark minerals such  
as garnets and zircon. These  
are so-called heavy miner-  
als whose density exceeds  
3 g/cm3. Young women once  
used to collect it on Hel Pen-  
insula and sell it. It was called  
“writing sand” and was used  
instead of blotting paper to  
help ink dry.  
THE BIRTH OF A DUNE  
Dunesꢀareꢀanꢀindispensableꢀelementꢀofꢀa peninsularꢀcoast.ꢀWaves,ꢀwhichꢀ  
inꢀsummertimeꢀkeepꢀhittingꢀtheꢀshoreꢀandꢀretreating,ꢀleaveꢀbehindꢀa thinꢀ  
streakꢀofꢀsand.ꢀThus,ꢀtheyꢀformꢀa sandbankꢀthatꢀisꢀparallelꢀtoꢀtheꢀwater-  
line. When its topmost part dries, strong winds are able to move grains  
of sand towards the land.  
Singing sands  
There are no real singing  
dunes on the Baltic coast.  
Yet, if the sand on the beach  
is well sorted (i.e. its grains  
have similar sizes) and dry,  
youꢀcanꢀhearꢀa similarꢀsound:ꢀ  
it’s enough to tread in such  
a wayꢀthatꢀyourꢀheelsꢀdragꢀ  
on the surface, making the  
sand grains rub against one  
another and creak or squeak.  
The first obstacle that wind-borne sand comes across is the plants  
which grow on winter beaches at the foot of the first dune bank. Among  
them, sea sandwort is notable as it has successfully adapted to being  
Dune vegetation on Wydma Lubiatowska,  
photo by K. Stępniewska  
14  
Nature in Northern Kashubia  
repeatedly buried by sand. Interestingly, this plant is often pollinated  
byꢀgrainsꢀofꢀsand,ꢀa rarityꢀinꢀtheꢀplantꢀworld.ꢀSeaꢀsandwortꢀisꢀoftenꢀac-  
companiedꢀbyꢀEuropeanꢀseaꢀrocket,ꢀa plantꢀwithꢀfleshyꢀleavesꢀandꢀpaleꢀ  
lavender flowers.  
Plants such as marram grass, sea lyme grass, and red fescue play an  
important part in the creation of primary dunes (the first line of dunes,  
frontal dunes). Red fescue grows on the coastal side where the so-called  
foredune develops. Marram grass appears in clusters of up to one me-  
tre, which stabilise the ground and protect it from strong gusts of wind.  
Under this shield, new dunes form and old ones increase in size. Sand  
stopped by red fescue and marram grass is stabilised by sea lyme grass,  
whichꢀgrowsꢀa numberꢀofꢀcriss-crossingꢀundergroundꢀstems.ꢀItsꢀleavesꢀ  
areꢀbroad,ꢀstiff,ꢀandꢀwaxyꢀ–ꢀa featureꢀwhichꢀgivesꢀthemꢀa bluishꢀhue.  
Winter beaches and the line of white and grey dunes are the habitats  
ofꢀseaꢀhollyꢀ(òstropùsꢀinꢀKashubian),ꢀa perennialꢀwhichꢀinꢀPolandꢀgrowsꢀ  
onlyꢀonꢀtheꢀshore.ꢀItsꢀseedsꢀmayꢀbeꢀsubmergedꢀforꢀoverꢀa monthꢀandꢀstillꢀ  
not lose their ability to sprout. Sea holly used to be avidly picked by holi-  
daymakers, which has mostly caused the plant to disappear. Nowadays  
itꢀisꢀa strictlyꢀprotected,ꢀcriticallyꢀendangeredꢀspecies.ꢀTheꢀbiggestꢀlocalꢀ  
clustersꢀofꢀseaꢀhollyꢀcanꢀbeꢀfoundꢀinꢀMechelińskieꢀŁąkiꢀnatureꢀreserve.  
Other rare plant species which bloom in the summer and are worth  
noting are Linaria odoraꢀ(a typeꢀofꢀtoadflax)ꢀandꢀbeachꢀpeaꢀ(seaꢀpea).  
Sand sedge, photo by M. Hadwiczak  
Summer beach – drowned  
by winter storms, in summer  
the waves do not reach it  
Winter beach – remains out  
of reach for most storm surges  
Sand dune formation  
Foredune – the initial stage of  
white dune formation  
White dune – the first stage  
of development; vegetation  
is sparse; the dune is not yet  
stable and winds can have  
a strongꢀimpactꢀonꢀit  
Grey dune – the result of  
a whiteꢀ duneꢀ changingꢀ dueꢀ  
to soil formation processes;it  
is colonised by various plants  
and is mostly stable  
Brown dune – fully stable,  
covered in thick vegetation:  
scrub or pine forest  
THE SUN AND WIND  
IN ABUNDANCE – THE NORTHERN  
KASHUBIA CLIMATE  
The northernmost region of Poland is located along the path of  
low-pressure areas that advance eastward from the Atlantic and bring  
fickleꢀweather.ꢀHowever,ꢀtheꢀclimateꢀhereꢀisꢀtoꢀa greatꢀextentꢀaffectedꢀ  
byꢀtheꢀBaltic,ꢀa hugeꢀbodyꢀofꢀwaterꢀthatꢀisꢀslowꢀtoꢀwarmꢀupꢀandꢀslowꢀ  
to cool down.  
Spring takes its own precious time to reach Norda; on average it starts  
three weeks later than in central Poland, as is demonstrated by the dif-  
ferent blooming season here. In summer, the days are the longest in the  
whole country and, as the sun blazes down, it gradually warms up the  
Baltic waters. Fans of sea bathing are advised to go to the beach between  
July and September asin June the water isn’t as warm as in the following  
European sea rocket, photo by M. Hadwiczak  
15  
Nature in Northern Kashubia  
Why can’t we go to the  
The legend of sea holly  
beach any way we want?  
Onceꢀuponꢀa timeꢀbyꢀtheꢀseaꢀlivedꢀ  
a boyꢀnamedꢀSeaꢀHollyꢀ(inꢀPolishꢀ  
thisꢀplantꢀhasꢀa masculineꢀname).ꢀ  
Even though he was as pretty as  
a picture,ꢀ allꢀ hisꢀ shenanigansꢀ  
made life difficult for everyone in  
the neighbourhood. One day his  
mischief came to an end. The wife  
ofꢀGosk,ꢀtheꢀgodꢀofꢀtheꢀBalticꢀSea,ꢀ  
came to the shore with her com-  
panions to bask in the warm rays  
of sun. The boy hid their robes.  
Even small-scale destruction  
of vegetation on sandy coasts  
gives the wind room to work  
and carry sand which then  
covers more plants. This can  
cause dunes to become mo-  
bile as they are vulnerable  
to the destructive influence  
of wavesꢀ inꢀ autumnꢀ andꢀ  
winter, when the beach pe-  
riodically disappears due to  
storms. This is why we should  
only enter the beach through  
the marked entrances. Don’t  
use illegal paths as they ef-  
fectively destroy intermedi-  
ate stages of dune forma-  
tion and rare plant species.  
At the bases of dunes, it’s  
easy to spot fences made of  
twigs and the willows, pines,  
grass, and beach rose plant-  
ed there: all of this serves to  
safeguard the seashore and  
assist in dune development.  
Remember that dunes, cliffs,  
and the strandline are legally  
protected in Poland.  
Sea holly, photo by M. Hadwiczak  
WhenꢀGoskꢀheardꢀhisꢀwife’sꢀstory,ꢀheꢀcastꢀa spellꢀthatꢀchangedꢀtheꢀ  
boy into sea holly. He will remain enchanted until the summer comes  
when no one picks even the smallest piece of this flower.  
months. The sea reaches its highest temperature in August and until  
late October it acts like a hot water bottle, mitigating the autumn chill.  
The shore enjoys the longest period of thermal autumn (around 60–70  
days). From November to February, the days are cloudier and Atlantic  
lows bring sometimes ferocious storms. January and February are the  
snowiest months, yet it rarely snows on the beaches. It is easier to find  
snow in the elevated coastal moraines and the inland.  
The wind makes the winter air in seaside towns the best in Poland,  
whereas in the growing season the amount of allergens is far smaller  
here, which brings relief to people who are allergic to pollen. Winds  
and waves crashing against the shore spray sea water salt into the  
air.ꢀBreathingꢀitꢀinꢀhasꢀa positiveꢀimpactꢀonꢀtheꢀrespiratoryꢀsystemꢀ  
and provides important chemical elements, including first and fore-  
most iodine, which people who suffer from hypothyroidism especially  
urgently need.  
THE NORDA SKY – NORTHERN  
LIGHTS AND WHITE NIGHTS  
Beach in winter, photo by M. Hadwiczak  
In winter, the night sky above Northern Kashubia can in cloudless weath-  
er offer us an amazing spectacle. When the solar wind hits the atoms  
in the upper layers of the Earth’s atmosphere, they start to glow, which  
is visible as patches, bands, arcs, and other shapes that tend to have  
various hues of green, red, blue, or violet. The open Baltic coast is the  
16  
Nature in Northern Kashubia  
Northern Lights above Norda,  
photo by M. Staszewski  
best place to  
watch the aurora borealis and other astronomi-  
Scorching heat on the beach  
and icy cold sea – upwelling