A GUIDE
Key to the icons used in the texts:
Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
observation of sea and sky phenomena
sky observation
bird observation
seal observation
plant observation
A GUIDE
Table
of contents
Nature in Northern Kashubia 9
Protected areas – reserves, sanctuaries,
and geosites 25
Discovering Norda 51
History and culture 67
Practical information 73
INVITATION
TO NORTHERN KASHUBIA
The Baltic shores swept by bitter northern winds and the sunniest bay
in Poland, Puck Bay. In summer, the longest days and the most beautiful
beaches on the longest Polish peninsula; in winter, the longest nights,
providing a chance to see the Northern Lights. Travelling birds herald
seasonal changes here as each spring and autumn they stop on their way
between the Arctic and warmer climes. Still young, geologically speaking,
the coastal landscape is constantly changing: the sea devours some
elevated places and gives us a glimpse into past chapters of the Earth’s
history; elsewhere, the waves, winds, and plants form dunes which are
the youngest scraps of land. Plant species from the times when tundra
grew in this region are preserved here. Even though it is not an area full
of lakes, the cleanest Polish lakes are here. This unique region formed the
identity of the Kashubians, who have been living by the sea for a dozen
centuries. We call it Northern Kashubia; its residents simply call it Norda.
Let’s discover these amazing landscapes, natural phenomena, plants,
and animals that can’t be found in other regions of Poland. Coming to
Norda in summer is not enough to appreciate its diversity. Many natural
peculiarities can only be seen in winter, autumn, or spring, when the
nature changes more quickly.
To make your discoveries easier we have prepared a tourist guide that
highlights where seasonal wonders of nature can be seen. The descriptive
part of the guide focuses on the secrets of the animate and inanimate
nature which make this land so exceptional: nature sanctuaries and pro-
tected areas, often unmatched in the whole of Poland, the educational
paths that run across them, tourist trails for hikers, bikers, and drivers.
It is impossible to describe this part of Pomerania without talking about
its natives – the Kashubians. Their culture and customs, as well as the
regional folklore visible at their regular social events, are what the last
part of the guide briefly outlines.
Enjoy getting back to nature with glee and gusto!
Spring
6
2
1
5
4
3
THE LAND
Vꢀ
ꢀTheꢀcommonꢀbroomꢀ(p.ꢀ33–34)ꢀbloomsꢀinꢀChłapowskiꢀGorgeꢀ and Strondowy Ravine
1
2
toꢀtheꢀsouthꢀofꢀJastrzębiaꢀGóra.ꢀ
THE BEACH AND THE WATER
III
Under certain weather conditions, ice floes pile up on the coast of Puck Bay and at Rewa
Cape , transforming into ice balls (p. 43).
3
The storm period ends and the summer beach reappears. The ebbs and flows of waves leave
behind the strandline (p. 11), which sometimes hides pieces of amber.
THE AIR
III–Vꢀ
ꢀOnꢀtheꢀduneꢀinꢀKuźnicaꢀ , near beach entrance No 33; on bright days you can see a dozen
4
species of birds of prey as well as swans, ducks, and cranes (p. 18).
The forests of the Kashubian coast are just as good for birdwatching. In early spring finches and
thrushes appear and are so numerous that they form moving blankets in glades and meadows
(p. 18).
ꢀ
ꢀAtꢀnightꢀinꢀKażaꢀsanctuaryꢀ and in Bielawa reserve
you can try to spot long-eared owls
5
6
(p. 19, 31).
THE SKY
III
V
On clear nights the aurora borealis can be seen over the Baltic (p. 14–15).
From 9 May, 24-hour daylight starts, astronomically speaking, as the astronomical dusk
changes into dawn (p. 15).
6
Summer
5
2
1
3
11
6
7
4
8
9
10
THE LAND
VIꢀ
ꢀTheꢀcommonꢀbroomꢀ(p.ꢀ33–34)ꢀbloomsꢀinꢀChłapowskiꢀGorgeꢀ and Strondowy Ravine
to
1
2
theꢀsouthꢀofꢀJastrzębiaꢀGóra.
In Zielone reserve
you can feel like you’re in Amazonia – the common honeysuckle twines
3
around trees like lianas (p. 50).
VI–VII Lime Alley in bloom in Rzucewo
(p. 44).
4
VIII
The heaths in Strondowy Ravine ꢀ(p.ꢀ34)ꢀandꢀBielawskieꢀBłotaꢀmarshꢀ are in bloom (p. 30–31).
5
6
THE BEACH AND THE WATER
VI–VII Choczewskie
and Czarne
lakes boast their Lobelian lake vegetation, including water
7
8
lobelia (p. 44).
VIII
Water in the sea is at its warmest. In Puck Bay near Rewa Cape , underwater meadows are in
9
bloom (p. 21–22).
THE AIR
VI–VIII In Beka reserve ꢀ(p.ꢀ19,ꢀ27)ꢀandꢀBielawskieꢀBłotaꢀ (p. 30–31) you can see birds that nest
10 11
and migrate.
ꢀCraneꢀcongregationsꢀinꢀBielawskieꢀBłotaꢀ (p. 20).
VIIIꢀ
11
THE SKY
VI–VII The period of 24 astronomical daylight hours a day continues, the afterglow changes into the
break of dawn. The clear midnight sky features night-shining clouds (p. 15).
VIꢀ
ꢀFromꢀ13ꢀtoꢀ28ꢀJuneꢀthereꢀareꢀnauticalꢀwhiteꢀnights:ꢀtheꢀsunꢀdescendsꢀonlyꢀaꢀbitꢀmoreꢀthanꢀ6˚ꢀ
under the line of the horizon. The phenomenon is most visible from the sea coast (p. 14–15).
7
Autumn
4
2
7
1
3
8
10
11
9
6
5
THE LAND
IXꢀ
ꢀCommonꢀseaꢀbuckthornꢀ(p.ꢀ33)ꢀbearsꢀyellow-orangeꢀfruitꢀinꢀChłapowskiꢀGorgeꢀ
.
1
X
Beeches that grow in forests by the Bezimienna river
hues (p. 40).
are adorned in beautiful autumn
2
XIꢀ
ꢀTheꢀlivingꢀcliffsꢀofꢀChłapowoꢀ ꢀandꢀJastrzębiaꢀGóraꢀ are marked by fresh
3
4
landslides (p. 10).
THE BEACH AND THE WATER
IX–XI Autumn is a great time to see grey seals at the tip of Hel Peninsula
(p. 16–17, 36).
5
X–XI
The storm period begins and the summer beach is gone for some time. The ebbs and flows
of waves leave behind the strandline (p. 11), which sometimes hides pieces of amber.
On dry and windy days the movement of sand dunes may be seen, for instance in Helskie
X–XI
Wydmy reserve
(p. 36) and on Lubiatowska Dune
(p. 39–40).
6
7
THE AIR
IXꢀ
ꢀCraneꢀcongregationsꢀinꢀBielawskieꢀBłotaꢀ (p. 20).
8
IX–XI
Autumn is the time of bird migrations (p. 17–21). To watch migratory birds, you should go to
Beka reserve ,ꢀKażaꢀsanctuaryꢀ ,ꢀorꢀperhapsꢀTorfoweꢀKłyleꢀ
.
9
10 11
X–XI
During storms, skuas can be seen by the sea (p. 20).
THE SKY
XI
On clear nights, the aurora borealis can be seen over the Baltic (p. 14–15).
8
Winter
2
4
1
8
7
6
5
3
THE LAND
XII–IIꢀ TheꢀlivingꢀcliffsꢀofꢀChłapowoꢀ ꢀandꢀJastrzębiaꢀGóraꢀ are marked by fresh landslides (p. 10).
1
2
THE BEACH AND THE WATER
XII–II
XII–II
I–II
On dry and windy days the movement of sand dunes may be seen, for instance in Helskie Wydmy
reserve (p. 36) and on Lubiatowska Dune (p. 39–40).
The storm period continues, and the summer beach is still gone. The ebbs and flows of waves
leave behind the strandline (p. 11), which sometimes hides pieces of amber.
3
4
Ice floes pile up on the coast of Puck Bay and at Rewa Cape , transforming into ice balls under
5
certain weather conditions (p. 43).
THE AIR
XII–II
In Norda, birdwatching can be done in many places, including Beka reserve
(p. 27), by the
6
open sea, in harbours (p. 21), and in Puck Bay, which is one of the main bird wintering grounds
in Europe (p. 20). Here, birds appear in the biggest numbers at the estuaries of the Reda
7
andꢀtheꢀZagórskaꢀStrugaꢀ
.
7
XII–IIꢀ ꢀLakeꢀŻarnowieckieꢀ is one of the largest Polish wintering grounds for the common coot,
8
which is accompanied by whooper swans, smews, and grebes (p. 15, 21).
I–II
On sunny days, long-tailed ducks (a species of sea duck) start their courtship rituals (p. 21).
On clear nights, the aurora borealis can be seen over the Baltic (p. 21).
THE SKY
XII–II
9
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO NORDA
WhenꢀvisitingꢀHelꢀPeninsula,ꢀPuckꢀBay,ꢀorꢀtheꢀbeachꢀinꢀDębki,ꢀwhichꢀisꢀ
one of the nicest on the Polish coast, you should carefully consider when
you plan to visit. Over the summer months, those places are so crowded
with people that local nature often suffers: coastal dunes are trampled
while protected birds and sea mammals are often scared away from
their habitats. Tourists leave lots of rubbish on the beaches and the
noisy parties they throw there frighten animals away.
When you relax in the water, please don’t forget the marine animals.
Forꢀinstance,ꢀinsteadꢀofꢀa deafeningꢀjetꢀski,ꢀchooseꢀa kayakꢀsoꢀthatꢀyouꢀ
can watch protected birds or mammals without scaring them. If you wish
to have fun windsurfing or kitesurfing, please avoid Ryf Mew (Seagull
Sandbar)ꢀasꢀthisꢀspotꢀisꢀa uniqueꢀhabitatꢀonꢀtheꢀBalticꢀcoast.ꢀDozensꢀofꢀ
bird species may be watched here, and resting seals might sometimes
appear. If you want to angle, remember to purchase appropriate permits
and check the relevant regulations concerning sea waters – they were
issued so that we can fish responsibly.
Even choosing the right accommodation can help nature. If, instead
ofꢀcampsitesꢀbyꢀtheꢀbay,ꢀyouꢀchooseꢀlodgingsꢀinꢀa populatedꢀareaꢀorꢀ
a campsiteꢀfarꢀfromꢀa beach,ꢀyouꢀactꢀtoꢀeaseꢀtheꢀpressureꢀthatꢀhumansꢀ
are putting Puck Bay under. The reed beds growing by the shore, which
are home to many protected bird and fish species, are being destroyed
by artificial beaches.
The more we take conscious decisions, the better not only for nature,
but also for us. To have the chance to relax in and with nature, it seems
sensible to visit Northern Kashubia in spring, autumn, or winter. Each of
these seasons is packed full of amazing natural attractions. Those who
loveꢀwarmꢀdaysꢀmayꢀfindꢀSeptemberꢀtoꢀbeꢀa goodꢀperiodꢀwhenꢀnatureꢀ
returns to its proper rhythm after the clamour of the peak season: the
evenings are still long, the sea is warmer than in June, and the weather
is balmy.
Relax close to nature! Relax together with nature!
10
Nature in Northern Kashubia
Nature
in Northern
Kashubia
photo by R. Nanaszko
11
Nature in Northern Kashubia
The northernmost stretch of Poland
isꢀa regionꢀofꢀconstantꢀstruggleꢀbe-
tween the sea and the land. In some
spots the Baltic is winning as it swal-
lows clay deposits from cliffs dur-
ing winter storms; elsewhere rivers
that flow into the sea and coastal
currents are forming the youngest
crumbs of the European continent.
Windꢀandꢀwaterꢀexertꢀa powerfulꢀ
force on the landscapes, flora, and
fauna here, making them unique in
the whole of Poland, with one group
of organisms quickly superseded by
Cliffed coast at Chłapowo, photo by W. Podolak
another. Severe and mild at the same time, the coastal climate not
onlyꢀmakesꢀitꢀa goodꢀenvironmentꢀforꢀplantꢀandꢀanimalꢀspeciesꢀthatꢀ
areꢀtypicalꢀofꢀbothꢀwarmerꢀandꢀcolderꢀpartsꢀofꢀEurope,ꢀbutꢀalsoꢀa placeꢀ
of rest for flocks of migratory birds which find respite here on their
annual travels.
European herring gull, photo by M. Hadwiczak
CLIFFS, A COASTAL LANDSCAPE
FOREVER YOUNG
A fifthꢀofꢀtheꢀPolishꢀcoastꢀofꢀtheꢀBalticꢀSeaꢀ(145ꢀkm)ꢀisꢀinꢀNorthernꢀKashu-
bia. The landscape is changing dynamically all the time where the sea
touchesꢀtheꢀland.ꢀThisꢀprocessꢀcanꢀbestꢀbeꢀseenꢀaroundꢀcliffs.ꢀA cliffedꢀ
coast is created where sea waves crash against mounds of higher el-
evation (moraine plateaus). As water washes away the sediment from
theꢀfootꢀofꢀa rockꢀexposure,ꢀwave-cutꢀnotchesꢀappearꢀatꢀtheꢀbottomꢀ
bottom which cause landslides and slippages of sand or clay layers.
Klif Chłapowski (Chłapowski Cliff),
photo by M. Hadwiczak
The “ravenous” Baltic
During winter storms,
the changes in cliffs are extensive
andꢀeasyꢀtoꢀsee:ꢀwavesꢀareꢀthenꢀableꢀtoꢀ“swallow”ꢀa beachꢀandꢀtoꢀhitꢀ
a precipiceꢀwithꢀfullꢀforce.ꢀIfꢀtheꢀseaꢀactuallyꢀcutsꢀa bitꢀofꢀlandꢀawayꢀ
each year, the cliff is called “living”. The living cliffs worth seeing on the
BalticꢀshoreꢀareꢀnearꢀChłapowoꢀandꢀJastrzębiaꢀGóraꢀ(theyꢀareꢀsecondꢀ
in height only to the cliffs of Wolin Island). In the Puck Bay area, short
sectionsꢀofꢀlivingꢀcliffsꢀareꢀtoꢀtheꢀnorthꢀofꢀOsłoninoꢀandꢀtoꢀtheꢀsouthꢀ
of Mechelinki. Other cliff sections are “dead”, which means that waves
cannot reach them during storm surges. Among them, Swarzewski
The Polish shore of the Baltic
recedes at about 0.7–0.9 m
per year. In some places, sea
waves can devour as much
as 5–10 m of cliffs and dunes
duringꢀa heavyꢀstorm.
12
Nature in Northern Kashubia
Cliff, Pucki Cliff, Rzucewski Cliff, and the one in Cape Rozewie nature
reserve may be mentioned.
HOW DID HEL PENINSULA FORM?
To understand how this narrow spit of land came to be, we need to think
back to the time when the sea level was 30 m lower than it is now, and
the mouth of the Vistula was to the east of the present-day Jurata resort.
The level of the sea started to rise rapidly, and its waves kept flooding
and destroying tracts of land, which became the source of the sediment
that formed the beginning of this peninsula. The underwater shoal was
(and is to this day) built by two currents flowing in from the hillocks of
KępaꢀSwarzewskaꢀ(Władysławowo)ꢀandꢀKępaꢀOksywskaꢀ(Gdynia).ꢀTheꢀ
youngest part of this coastal spit has been forming for “only” 3 thousand
years to the west of Jurata. The small Rewa headland (Mierzeja Rewska)
is the same age.
Rewa Headland, photo by K. Kazanowski
Cypel Rewski (Rewa
headland, Kash. Szpërk)
Toꢀtheꢀsouth-westꢀofꢀWładys-
ławowo,ꢀbetweenꢀRewaꢀandꢀ
Kuźnica,ꢀwhatꢀisꢀtakingꢀplaceꢀ
before our eyes is the forma-
tionꢀprocessꢀofꢀa uniqueꢀpen-
insula that is slowly closing off
the inner part of Puck Bay.
When the water level drops,
a sandbankꢀ thatꢀ isꢀ almostꢀ
a kilometreꢀ longꢀ emergesꢀ
from the Bay, formed by the
same sea currents that build
Hel Peninsula. The sandbar is
part of a shoal called Mewia
Rewa or Ryf Mew (Seagull
Sandbank), which stretches
underwaterꢀ upꢀ toꢀ Kuźnicaꢀ
and in some places comes to
the surface.
THE STRANDLINE BRINGS
TREASURES
Stronger waves or storm surges deposit plant and animal remains that
formꢀa sortꢀofꢀembankmentꢀovergrownꢀwithꢀplants,ꢀcalledꢀ
kidzina in Polish (czidzëna in Kashubian). This flotsam and jetsam
is removed from the main swimming areas, but it is worth looking at in
moreꢀremoteꢀplacesꢀsinceꢀtheꢀorganicꢀremainsꢀitꢀcontainsꢀsayꢀa lotꢀaboutꢀ
the organisms that live at the bottom of the littoral zone of the sea.
On the open Baltic coast in summer, it is easy to find the distinctive air
bladders of bladderwrack (also called sea kelp), which is the largest Baltic
algae from the brown algae class, as well as black carrageen (Furcellaria
lumbricalis),ꢀa typeꢀofꢀsmallꢀredꢀalgaeꢀwithꢀfastigiatedꢀreddishꢀorꢀbrownishꢀ
fronds. Both species are now heavily depleted in the Polish part of the
Baltic; the bladderwrack and red algae material that can be found on
Polish beaches mostly comes from Danish and Swedish shores.
Strandlineꢀvegetationꢀinꢀtheꢀsandꢀcanꢀalsoꢀsometimesꢀcontainꢀa con-
siderable number of bivalve shells, with the Baltic clam being the most
common among them. This species is one of the main food sources for
flounders. The largest (6–8 cm) Baltic shells are those of sand gapers.
Strandline, photo by M. Hadwiczak
13
Nature in Northern Kashubia
Unlikeꢀtheseꢀtwoꢀspecies,ꢀlagoonꢀcocklesꢀhaveꢀa denselyꢀribbedꢀshellꢀ
surface.
After strong storm surges, pieces of amber can be found in the strand-
line. This is Baltic gold, called jantar in Kashubian and bùrsztin in Hel
Peninsula. It comes from the era about 35 million years ago, when im-
mense coniferous forests grew in the region where the Baltic now is.
Large amounts of resin would trickle down from the trees and its fos-
silized form would be carried southward by the Eridanos river and later
on, during glacial periods, by ice streams. The pieces of resin submerged
under the Baltic waters are to this very day dragged up by waves and
swept ashore.
Sometimesꢀsmallꢀlagoonsꢀformꢀonꢀbeaches.ꢀApartꢀfromꢀa smallꢀcrusta-
ceanꢀspeciesꢀcalledꢀgammaridsꢀ(orꢀscuds),ꢀmoonꢀjellyꢀ(a sortꢀofꢀumbrel-
la-shaped jellyfish) lives here. These cnidarians are 98% water and feed
onꢀplankton.ꢀTheyꢀdon’tꢀsurviveꢀonꢀlandꢀunlessꢀa bigꢀwaveꢀwashesꢀthemꢀ
back to the sea. Don’t worry, even though moon jelly has cnidocytes
(stinging tentacles), they can’t hurt humans.
Bladderwrack, photo by M. Hadwiczak
Writing sand
Along with bright sand, dark-
er sand can be found on the
beaches which is mostly com-
posed of dark minerals such
as garnets and zircon. These
are so-called heavy miner-
als whose density exceeds
3 g/cm3. Young women once
used to collect it on Hel Pen-
insula and sell it. It was called
“writing sand” and was used
instead of blotting paper to
help ink dry.
THE BIRTH OF A DUNE
Dunesꢀareꢀanꢀindispensableꢀelementꢀofꢀa peninsularꢀcoast.ꢀWaves,ꢀwhichꢀ
inꢀsummertimeꢀkeepꢀhittingꢀtheꢀshoreꢀandꢀretreating,ꢀleaveꢀbehindꢀa thinꢀ
streakꢀofꢀsand.ꢀThus,ꢀtheyꢀformꢀa sandbankꢀthatꢀisꢀparallelꢀtoꢀtheꢀwater-
line. When its topmost part dries, strong winds are able to move grains
of sand towards the land.
Singing sands
There are no real singing
dunes on the Baltic coast.
Yet, if the sand on the beach
is well sorted (i.e. its grains
have similar sizes) and dry,
youꢀcanꢀhearꢀa similarꢀsound:ꢀ
it’s enough to tread in such
a wayꢀthatꢀyourꢀheelsꢀdragꢀ
on the surface, making the
sand grains rub against one
another and creak or squeak.
The first obstacle that wind-borne sand comes across is the plants
which grow on winter beaches at the foot of the first dune bank. Among
them, sea sandwort is notable as it has successfully adapted to being
Dune vegetation on Wydma Lubiatowska,
photo by K. Stępniewska
14
Nature in Northern Kashubia
repeatedly buried by sand. Interestingly, this plant is often pollinated
byꢀgrainsꢀofꢀsand,ꢀa rarityꢀinꢀtheꢀplantꢀworld.ꢀSeaꢀsandwortꢀisꢀoftenꢀac-
companiedꢀbyꢀEuropeanꢀseaꢀrocket,ꢀa plantꢀwithꢀfleshyꢀleavesꢀandꢀpaleꢀ
lavender flowers.
Plants such as marram grass, sea lyme grass, and red fescue play an
important part in the creation of primary dunes (the first line of dunes,
frontal dunes). Red fescue grows on the coastal side where the so-called
foredune develops. Marram grass appears in clusters of up to one me-
tre, which stabilise the ground and protect it from strong gusts of wind.
Under this shield, new dunes form and old ones increase in size. Sand
stopped by red fescue and marram grass is stabilised by sea lyme grass,
whichꢀgrowsꢀa numberꢀofꢀcriss-crossingꢀundergroundꢀstems.ꢀItsꢀleavesꢀ
areꢀbroad,ꢀstiff,ꢀandꢀwaxyꢀ–ꢀa featureꢀwhichꢀgivesꢀthemꢀa bluishꢀhue.
Winter beaches and the line of white and grey dunes are the habitats
ofꢀseaꢀhollyꢀ(òstropùsꢀinꢀKashubian),ꢀa perennialꢀwhichꢀinꢀPolandꢀgrowsꢀ
onlyꢀonꢀtheꢀshore.ꢀItsꢀseedsꢀmayꢀbeꢀsubmergedꢀforꢀoverꢀa monthꢀandꢀstillꢀ
not lose their ability to sprout. Sea holly used to be avidly picked by holi-
daymakers, which has mostly caused the plant to disappear. Nowadays
itꢀisꢀa strictlyꢀprotected,ꢀcriticallyꢀendangeredꢀspecies.ꢀTheꢀbiggestꢀlocalꢀ
clustersꢀofꢀseaꢀhollyꢀcanꢀbeꢀfoundꢀinꢀMechelińskieꢀŁąkiꢀnatureꢀreserve.
Other rare plant species which bloom in the summer and are worth
noting are Linaria odoraꢀ(a typeꢀofꢀtoadflax)ꢀandꢀbeachꢀpeaꢀ(seaꢀpea).
Sand sedge, photo by M. Hadwiczak
Summer beach – drowned
by winter storms, in summer
the waves do not reach it
Winter beach – remains out
of reach for most storm surges
Sand dune formation
Foredune – the initial stage of
white dune formation
White dune – the first stage
of development; vegetation
is sparse; the dune is not yet
stable and winds can have
a strongꢀimpactꢀonꢀit
Grey dune – the result of
a whiteꢀ duneꢀ changingꢀ dueꢀ
to soil formation processes;it
is colonised by various plants
and is mostly stable
Brown dune – fully stable,
covered in thick vegetation:
scrub or pine forest
THE SUN AND WIND
IN ABUNDANCE – THE NORTHERN
KASHUBIA CLIMATE
The northernmost region of Poland is located along the path of
low-pressure areas that advance eastward from the Atlantic and bring
fickleꢀweather.ꢀHowever,ꢀtheꢀclimateꢀhereꢀisꢀtoꢀa greatꢀextentꢀaffectedꢀ
byꢀtheꢀBaltic,ꢀa hugeꢀbodyꢀofꢀwaterꢀthatꢀisꢀslowꢀtoꢀwarmꢀupꢀandꢀslowꢀ
to cool down.
Spring takes its own precious time to reach Norda; on average it starts
three weeks later than in central Poland, as is demonstrated by the dif-
ferent blooming season here. In summer, the days are the longest in the
whole country and, as the sun blazes down, it gradually warms up the
Baltic waters. Fans of sea bathing are advised to go to the beach between
July and September asin June the water isn’t as warm as in the following
European sea rocket, photo by M. Hadwiczak
15
Nature in Northern Kashubia
Why can’t we go to the
The legend of sea holly
beach any way we want?
Onceꢀuponꢀa timeꢀbyꢀtheꢀseaꢀlivedꢀ
a boyꢀnamedꢀSeaꢀHollyꢀ(inꢀPolishꢀ
thisꢀplantꢀhasꢀa masculineꢀname).ꢀ
Even though he was as pretty as
a picture,ꢀ allꢀ hisꢀ shenanigansꢀ
made life difficult for everyone in
the neighbourhood. One day his
mischief came to an end. The wife
ofꢀGosk,ꢀtheꢀgodꢀofꢀtheꢀBalticꢀSea,ꢀ
came to the shore with her com-
panions to bask in the warm rays
of sun. The boy hid their robes.
Even small-scale destruction
of vegetation on sandy coasts
gives the wind room to work
and carry sand which then
covers more plants. This can
cause dunes to become mo-
bile as they are vulnerable
to the destructive influence
of wavesꢀ inꢀ autumnꢀ andꢀ
winter, when the beach pe-
riodically disappears due to
storms. This is why we should
only enter the beach through
the marked entrances. Don’t
use illegal paths as they ef-
fectively destroy intermedi-
ate stages of dune forma-
tion and rare plant species.
At the bases of dunes, it’s
easy to spot fences made of
twigs and the willows, pines,
grass, and beach rose plant-
ed there: all of this serves to
safeguard the seashore and
assist in dune development.
Remember that dunes, cliffs,
and the strandline are legally
protected in Poland.
Sea holly, photo by M. Hadwiczak
WhenꢀGoskꢀheardꢀhisꢀwife’sꢀstory,ꢀheꢀcastꢀa spellꢀthatꢀchangedꢀtheꢀ
boy into sea holly. He will remain enchanted until the summer comes
when no one picks even the smallest piece of this flower.
months. The sea reaches its highest temperature in August and until
late October it acts like a hot water bottle, mitigating the autumn chill.
The shore enjoys the longest period of thermal autumn (around 60–70
days). From November to February, the days are cloudier and Atlantic
lows bring sometimes ferocious storms. January and February are the
snowiest months, yet it rarely snows on the beaches. It is easier to find
snow in the elevated coastal moraines and the inland.
The wind makes the winter air in seaside towns the best in Poland,
whereas in the growing season the amount of allergens is far smaller
here, which brings relief to people who are allergic to pollen. Winds
and waves crashing against the shore spray sea water salt into the
air.ꢀBreathingꢀitꢀinꢀhasꢀa positiveꢀimpactꢀonꢀtheꢀrespiratoryꢀsystemꢀ
and provides important chemical elements, including first and fore-
most iodine, which people who suffer from hypothyroidism especially
urgently need.
THE NORDA SKY – NORTHERN
LIGHTS AND WHITE NIGHTS
Beach in winter, photo by M. Hadwiczak
In winter, the night sky above Northern Kashubia can in cloudless weath-
er offer us an amazing spectacle. When the solar wind hits the atoms
in the upper layers of the Earth’s atmosphere, they start to glow, which
is visible as patches, bands, arcs, and other shapes that tend to have
various hues of green, red, blue, or violet. The open Baltic coast is the
16
Nature in Northern Kashubia
Northern Lights above Norda,
photo by M. Staszewski
best place to
watch the aurora borealis and other astronomi-
Scorching heat on the beach
and icy cold sea – upwelling